Saturday, April 23, 2016

Oklahoma





Oklahoma

Before we go on about Oklahoma we have to share our last stop in Texas, Palo Dura State Park. This canyon park extends 11 miles through a beautiful red Rock Canyon. Texans feel it is the grand canyon of Texas. The canyon was the site of a famous battle between the Comanche Worrier Quanah Parker and the US Calvary.

We are out of Texas and into OK. Our first stop was Boiling Spring State Park in Woodward OK. It reminded us of the parks in FL with the water boiling out of the ground. Here though only about 30 gallons/minute, not the thousands like in FL. We enjoyed the trails in the park and did lots of birding. We also went to the Lesser Prairie Chicken festival. We were going to go out at 4 in the morning but because of the high winds they couldn’t set up the bird blinds. Instead we met at 5:30 and went out in a van. As dawn came so did the birds. The male Prairie Chickens do a dance; puff up a sack on the side of their head and dance around trying to impress the hens. We also had 2 other trips to see birds and prairie dog towns. On one trip it was just David and I and our guide. Alex was a wonderful young man and so enthusiastic about birds and plants. Our personal tour was memorable.

From here we went to Salt Plains State Park. This is the home of Great Salt Plains National Wildlife refuge. This unique habitat is an excellent stop over for birds migrating to their breeding grounds in sub arctic region.  We again went on many hikes looking for birds along the way. At one site we watched a 5 ft rat snake use downed trees to get to a man made bird house set up in the water. It avoided the snake guard and slither up the post to the house and got inside. Over time all 5 feet disappeared.  I’m sure the eggs inside did too.

We are now in Osage Hill country.  For 2 nights we camped in the Osage Hill State Park. We again hiked all around the park birding along the way. In Bartlesville we went to the Woolaroc museum. The founder of Phillips Petroleum established it, Frank Phillips. It is on 3800 acres. When you arrive you have a 2-mile driveway, along the way there were 3 kinds of deer, a zebra, water buffalo (not bison) and an emu. He established this because he wanted children to remember the past. His collection of Indian relics went back to 200AD. The collection of Indian chief portraits, clothing, blankets and jewelry was just stunning. The cowboy saddles, one studded in diamonds, sapphires and rubies, was beyond belief.  The collection of great western paintings, breath taking, Russell, Remington, Lee, Moran and Johnson just to name a few. He had a collection of Colt guns of all makes. I didn’t know they made that many. There were bison, elephant, deer and even a moose head on the walls.
Mr. Phillips started out as a barber, owned a bank and got into oil. There is a story that his banks never were robbed because the bank robbers kept the money they stole from other banks in his. He would have huge cookouts for eastern big wigs with cowboys, bank robbers and sheriffs. They would all come together because Frank would make the law agree to let the gangsters have a 24-hour head start when the party was over.
We moved on to a private campground near Pawhuska. This was so we could get to the Tallgrass Prairie Preserve. It is about 40,000 acres protected by The Nature Conservancy. At one time there were portions of 14 states and over 142 million acres of tallgrass prairie. This preserve also has a heard of about 2,700 bison that roam free over certain parts of the range. They have been genetically tested and are about 99.9% bison/ 0.1% cattle. Besides driving through the park, visiting the Barnard ranch, which is now the visitor’s center, we did a 3-mile hike.  Ben Johnson Jr., the Hollywood actor, grew up on this ranch. His father was foreman. You may remember him in the cowboy movies, with John Wayne. Before getting into the movies he was a nationally known Rodeo cowboy star. He started out in Hollywood training actors how to look like they could really ride a horse.
We also came to this Prairie so we could see the Greater Prairie Chicken. We were able to find out where on the range to hopefully see them. Early this morning we lucked out. At first we only heard them but eventually they showed themselves. Again the males strut around to look impressive for the chicks.
We plan to go into Tulsa to a museum tomorrow then move on come Monday.

While doing laundry today our campground host informed me that we might have a tornado tomorrow night. She said there is a sever weather warning for this county. I was shown where the tornado shelter is and she was going to clean out the cobwebs and put new flashlights in them. She said the Indians picked Pawhuska to live because they felt the way the land is it wouldn’t have a tornado. When I asked if there has ever been one in town she said no but we aren’t in town. I guess there have been some 30 miles to the north and south of here. Well as David and I say it’s just like being on the boat in a storm, just be prepared. We have a storm cellar right next to our campsite!

Oklahoma has been most enjoyable. The scenery has been great. There is a great difference from west to east. It is anything but a flat featureless landscape. That description would better fit the panhandle of Texas. Furthermore the people of Oklahoma couldn’t be friendlier.


Palo Dura Canyon

Rufous-crown Sparrow

Palo Dura Canyon

Golden Fronted Woodpecker

Lesser Prairie Chicken in full display

Two LPC facing off

Snake in a box

Blue Gray Gnatcatcher on her clutch

Sun Set view from our trailer at Great Salt Plains SP

Lark Sparrow

Wild flowers covering prairie

Bison cow and calf

Scissor tailed Flycatcher

Marsh at great Salt Plains

Monday, April 11, 2016

The Trans Pacos





                                          Big Bend National Park and Beyond


Big Bend is absolutely in the middle of nowhere. The last town before turning off to Big Bend consists of about 3 buildings and the park boarder is some 70 miles down the road. Once we entered the park it is about another 50 miles to the Reo Grand Village campground. We chose this campground not for it’s beauty but for the relative comfort that it affords. They provide electricity therefore air conditioning is possible if needed, and it was! One day it reached 97 degrees along with the intense radiant effect of the southern sun. Hot! The scenery is spectacular and wildlife abounds in this apparently inhospitable environment. For the most part the ecosystem is Chihuahuan Desert. The only exception is the Chisos Mountains, extending over 8,000 feet above sea level.

The majority of our time was spent hiking through the desert. On the first full day Diana thought that I had a plan to kill her. We did a 7-mile hike to a hot spring along the Reo Grand River. It was not flat. We had to hike up and around a canyon to get back to the river. At this point the river is anything but grand. At the hot spring we met a couple from Maine and hiked back to Reo Grand Village with them. We then gave them a ride back to the parking lot at the hot spring to retrieve their camper.

In addition to the wildlife side of the park there were ruins from inhabitants of the area during the 19th century; most certainly were a very hardy sort. Another one of our hikes we climbed 1,400 feet to a peek overlooking the Chisos basin and surrounding desert. All told we managed not to kill Diana but got to identify 18 new species of birds. In addition we saw Mexican and Mule Deer, a Ringtail, multiple lizards and several snakes including a diamond back rattler.

Our next destination was Fort Davis Texas, about 150 miles north and a little west of Big Bend. As a reference if we drove due north from here we would be in the state of New Mexico. This area has many things to offer. The area is centered on the spectacular Davis Mountain range. And yes the state park had abundant hiking trails where we managed to see several additional new birds bringing our new bird sightings up to close to 50 new species from Texas.

Another high point for us was our 2 visits to The McDonald Observatory, an arm of The University Of Texas in Austin. The first visit was a twilight program followed up by viewing celestial objects through their telescopes. We saw a galaxy 20 million light years away. Another great view was of the Planet Jupiter, showing its rings and 4 Galilean Moons. The daytime program was centered on the concept of the Universe and our Sun in particular. We then got to see 2 of their research telescopes. One is an old one, 1998, being refitted for a new project that is a combined project between 5 universities from both the US and Europe. It will truly become a world-class piece of equipment.


On a historical note we visited Fort Davis, a National Park Site that is the best example of a frontier fort from the westward expansion period of American history. The primary mission for the fort was to protect the settlers and the Gold Rushers of the mid to late 19th century. All David could think about was Rin Tin Tin. Remember that one!

Lastly and not necessarily least was a trip to a local Microbrew. We had to travel to the town of Alpine Texas, 27 miles away to obtain diesel fuel for our next leg of our adventure. No diesel in Ft Davis. It just so happens that Alpine is home to Big Bend Brewing Company. I must say they produce a very fine IPA and are real nice folks to boot.

Vermilion Flycatcher

Boquillas Canyon

Reo Grande with mountains in background

Reo Grande looking East from Hot Springs hike

Desert Floor

Approach to Reo Grand village

Bee doing it's thing in a cactus flower

Mule Ears mountain

View at termination of Windows Hike

Desert Floor

Santa Elena Canyon

Chisos Mountains Tower above desert

Entering Chisos basin

Blue Grey Gnatcatcher

View of desert Floor from Lost Mine Trail high in the Chisos Mountains

Snake of Some kind

Golden Fronted woodpecker

Say's Phoebe 

Butterfly

McDonald Observatory as seen from Indian Lodge trail Davis Mountain SP

Fort Davis National Park

Research Telescopes McDonald Observatory

New Cutting Edge Telescope for recording light wavelengths from deep space

Texas ho down at Luckenbac with Asleep At The Wheel

Judge Roy Bean's Original Bar/Court Room

Reo Grand Valley

View from high in the Chisos Mountains


Telescope at McDonalds
Big Bend Brewery!